Murcia chefs rediscover the desert truffle
The «Mercecia claveri» mushroom grows in the arid lands of the region and enhances the flavor of other dishes made with local ingredients
In the arid soils of Murcia a fungus grows that has been consumed on the shores of the Mediterranean long before the black or white truffle. It is the «Mercecia claveri», known as the «desert truffle». "It is a product that adapts to the climatic conditions of the region", presents Paco de Lara , grower of this turma. «The fungus has been domesticated and cultivated. It requires no fertilizers and very little water is enough. ' However, "it should not be confused with black truffle, neither in price (around 40 euros per kilo) nor in flavor," warns chef David López Car reño , from the Local de Ensayo restaurant.
The inclusion of this mushroom in haute cuisine dishes comes from the hand of the great chefs of Murcia, always interested in the local product and the particular flavors of their land. Take, for example, María Gómez , chef at the one Michelin star restaurant, Magoga. At Reale Seguros Madrid Fusión's Multipurpose Stage, she prepares a seasonal dish based on pésoles, very sweet peas from her area, sautéed with oil and truffle, seeking an "essence" of what she ate with her grandfather. Its final touch is with strawberries, "to give it acidity and counteract the sweet taste," explains Gómez. «At Magoga we attach great importance to texture. The more it has, the more the diner enjoys it. To finish, veil of Murcian flatbread bacon and shoots of the same pea.
Another recipe that "talks about the raw product" is put on the stove by López Carreño . "You also have to use the skin," he recommends, while preparing a dish with mallow, a wild herb and flatbread. «Unlike the black truffle, which loses its flavor after 65º, this one gains it. It must be cooked to enhance it. We cook and grill it, but we add the fat with the flatbread to make it juicier. Finish the dish with a seasonal smoked root broth, such as carrots or beets.
